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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE)

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    yapin24
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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE) Empty AROWANA INFO (CHINESE)

    Post  yapin24 Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:27 am

    过背金龙 Malayan bonytongue
      原 产 地:马来西亚
      体 长:30~50厘米
      最适水温:24~28℃
      过背金龙幼鱼时期的鱼体呈浅金绿色,成鱼的鳞框则呈金黄色,并且包括整个鱼背,各鳍均呈金红色。
      饲养的方法与所有的龙鱼一样。
      过背金龙的原生水环境,是流经锡矿含量丰富的山脉,混着热带雨林的黑水,使得河水看起来十分的混浊,呈现奶茶般的颜色,也因此河水中的矿物质含量远超过印度尼西亚的红龙产地--卡普亚斯河的水。再者红龙栖息的地域是水流平缓的湖泊,不同于过背金龙栖息的水流较急,也因此过背金龙有着和红龙截然不同的性格与表现,一般而言,金龙类的各鳍较红龙来的粗硬,也因此各鳍容易断裂,尤其是过背金龙还有着敏感的个性,于是乎在幼龙饲育时期,经常在换缸或搬运的过程中,发生龙鱼最特殊的自切现象,也就是臀鳍、尾鳍从根部自行切断;或者因环境的变化受到惊吓,轻则沈底不动,重则在缸内四处乱窜有如惊弓之鸟,因而掉鳞、破皮、嘴肿、鳍骨折断而让主人心疼不已,但又无可奈何,所以在饲育管理上要特别注意。


    龙鱼喂食问题

      过背金龙随着鱼龄的增长,其亮鳞的高度可达背部第六排鳞片,也就是说会越过背部形成一道完整闪亮金边的背鳞;而红尾金成鱼时,亮鳞的高度只到第五排的一半左右;其次的不同处则在于金质亮度的不同,一般而言,过背金龙有着闪亮耀眼如黄金般的金属色泽,而红尾金的金属色泽较偏向铜金色,不若过背金龙黄金般的金亮,尤其是鳃盖上的金黄印记更为明显。
      一般而言,在幼鱼不超过15公分大小时,即使是有经验的老手也很难分辨过背与红尾的不同,等到超过20公分以上才会有较明显的差异出现,因此在购买时要特别的注意。
      金龙依底色的不同基本上可以再分为两大类,一为金底,从淡金色到浓金色都有,依照每一只个体的表现而有所差异,另一类则为蓝底型,其色调包括绿、青、蓝、紫,所以若配合上底和框的色调,金龙的颜色可以说是变化无穷,而这也正是令人玩味之处。


    美人同伴 艳压群芳的过背金龙

      如同红龙一样,如何培育出一只形质俱优令人称羡的金龙,往往成为饲育者最重要的课题;大体而言,金龙的体态往往不若红龙般优美修长,头型较圆润,而各鳍的长度也明显的短小,甚至须角也较红龙类的粗短,尤其过背金更为明显,虽然体态不如红尾金、红龙来得讨喜,但其圆润厚实的体型却更能突显出其稳重尊贵的气息,体态固然重要,但饲育者应将重点摆在巨大富变化的鳞片上,以及整体散发出特殊金属光泽的表现度,因为这是玩家及养殖业者一致公认一只好的过背金龙需具备最重要的条件之一。

      当然要培育出一只绝品的过背金龙,其首要的条件为品种的挑选;血统的好坏在其后的整体表现上占了百分之七十的绝大比例,也因此让很多消费者在购买时大伤脑筋。
      最近十年来,在日本的杂志媒体的报导下,顶级的蓝底过背金龙俨然成为日本人的最爱,也因此原本散布在马来西亚各湖泊流域的野生过背金龙也几乎被捞捕殆尽,目前止剩下布其美拉湖还保有野生过背金龙,所以过背金龙的身价水涨船高,一只小的过背金龙往往是一只小的Super Red红龙的两、三倍身价,然而近年来在鱼场的努力经营下,虽然保有了血统纯正的过背金龙,但也有许多模棱两可的金龙上市,如高背红尾金等,所以最好是能分辨出品种再购买。
      通常相同尺寸下,如18公分时过背金龙的底色较深厚,且亮鳞排数较高、金框较明显,而背、臀鳍鳍基的小鳞片会有亮鳞的表现,其次是底色与鳞框的粗细,过背金龙幼龙绝大部分都是紫蓝底,只有少部分是青绿、正蓝或金色的,且鳞框大都明确,等到中龙约35公分大小时,其第四、五排的底色尤其抢眼,但随着鱼龄的增长,体长达到45公分以上时,多数的过背金龙往往会有吃框的困扰,有些甚至到鳞底只剩底斑,多半会成为粗框带点鳞底的表现,所以长大到成鱼还保有明显细框的过背金龙不多,但大多数的过背金龙因光线照射角度的不同,尤其是在自然的太阳光下,其鳞底微妙的表现及丰富的色泽却仍能显现出来,因此挑选幼鱼时,应挑自己喜欢的底色越深越好,鳞底的金属光泽感则是越明亮越干净越好,而鳞框的切割越明显越好。
      在先天的条件具备后,也需要后天的细心照顾,方能把过背金龙的荣耀展现出来。相信多数曾经饲养多种亚洲龙鱼的过背金龙主人都会发现,过背金龙是一种较神经质的龙鱼,比起一般的龙鱼多了一份紧张感和野性美,且因为和红龙的产地不同,自然会和饲育红龙的方式有所差异,希望读者也能有这样的认知。


    亮鳞过背的金龙才是过背金龙
      饲育环境与饵料选择
      由于体质的影响,使得过背金龙特别偏食,往往只吃昆虫类的食物,长久下来难免会有营养不均衡的情况发生,使得发育迟缓不易长大,而甲壳类(虾子)等红色扬色性的饵料建议尽量少喂,以确保过背金龙体色自然明亮,因此在饵料的选择上最好能多样丰富。此外,四周环境、光照、水质也和红龙大不相同。长时间的光照有助于红龙的显色,相反的,过背金龙较不需要太长及太强的光照,过长的光照会让过背金龙的背部暗沈发黑,且金黄的色度会变浓,显得不够明亮,金属光泽感容易消失;水质则保持洁净透明,不能过酸、过软;而鱼缸周围的环境宜为浅色,最好能四周透光有别于红龙的暗色系环境。以上的作法都是为了能凸显过背金自然而富金属光泽的体色,平时的照明也以太阳灯管较好。
    金龙的出色
      最后,饲主最关心的事情,莫过于到底过背金龙何时会过背,因为亮鳞不会过背的金龙就不是过背金龙了,过背金龙过背的速度依个体表现而有很大的差异,如超级白金过背在15公分时就完全过背了,但也有些过背金龙到了七、八年后才过背,甚至过得不完全,不过在成长到40公分后,第六排的鳞片就会在下缘发亮出金边,通常在靠近背鳍的鳞片会先出金边,快则在经过一、两年的细心调教之后就会完全过背,所以能够培育出一只出色的过背金龙大约需要3~5年的时间,这是何其不易,但也是何等骄傲的事。不论是金底、蓝底,粗框还是细框,看着闪亮耀眼的龙鱼在缸中优游自在的模样,心中那份满足感与成就感绝非言语文字所能表达,也希望各位饲主能够培育出心目中最顶级的过背神龙
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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE) Empty 红龙与过背饲养

    Post  yapin24 Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:03 am

    紅龍要養的漂亮.以下這三點很重要
    1.環境.
    紅龍隨者環境來改變他的發色.也是所謂的環境保護色.
    魚缸
    試驗過黑色缸紅度較紅.藍色缸紅度較亮.白缸透明缸.紅度較淡.
    魚缸擺設位置
    常有人走動的動線旁.龍魚較不穩定.影響發色.幽境的角落.地下室.龍魚較穩定.發色極佳.
    魚缸混養魚隻
    密度過高的養殖相對製造的污染源也多水質也較不易維持.容易造成蛀鱗(跟魟魚混養尤其明顯)單養比過混養來的發色穩定.因為牽扯到魚隻強勢與弱勢.混養魚隻也不宜比龍魚大和強勢.
    2.燈光.
    龍魚靠光線上色.沒有光線的是不可能上色.當大家一心在追求雜誌上顏色厚實滿鳃蓋的龍魚時.可知這些龍魚的飼養環境皆是有充足的光線供上色.追求厚實的發色.只有給予充足的燈照.測燈照的上色是最快.但是謹防掉眼.當龍魚有測游現象.盡速調整光源位置.(全世界只有台灣.大陸極為重視掉眼.在產地和日本.韓國.等東南亞龍魚進口國.在乎的是顏色.體型.體態.一尾優良的體態良好.發色厚實的龍魚是極為珍貴.和高價.掉眼是瑕不掩瑜.當然一尾無缺點顏色又紅的亞成魚是非常的稀少且珍貴的.但是能有幾隻可以有此表現.)
    燈管選擇.個人及產地所看.旭光植物燈.還是大眾化使用.
    3.水.
    穩定的水質.小幅度的PH震盪.低導電度.300以下.可使龍魚的發色持續上色.維持良好的水質及是要有健全過硝化過濾系統.有健全強大的硝化系統就減少換水時效.減少換水時效就能減少每次換水所影響的PH震盪.在想盡速改善硝化系統.鋪底沙是最快的方法.但是要定時清理底沙.雖然說過濾濾材有需多替代品.並非一定要高單價的東西才好用.但是當你無法培養充足的硝化菌時.請還是借助於高單價的過濾濾材.和市售消化菌.可以讓你快速維持魚缸的水質穩定.當魚缸生態漸趨平衡.且你對水質有一定的程度了解.就可以慢慢替換掉或尋找其他替代品.給魚良好的水質就如人需要乾淨的空氣.
    如何斷定良好水質?水看起來很透很亮.水中無細小懸浮物.氣泡.水面上無油污.氣泡打上水面即破散.無氣泡集結..
    水溫
    換水溫度保持+/-2.度.避免劇烈震盪.20CM以下龍保持30~31高溫.促進新成代謝.小龍較易立鱗.大龍可接受28度左右溫度.試驗過大龍在25度發色為最佳.但是極容易感染水霉.
    前提之下加溫棒瓦數要夠.避免溫度急速下降加溫來不及.
    18~35度龍魚都能生存.但是急速溫度震盪是很危險的.高溫到低溫是可接受.低溫到高溫即會暴斃.
    黑水
    市售黑水.品牌眾多且成分不知.需仔細選購.挑國外大廠牌較有保障.黑水可放可不放.放的時間也很重要.經實驗並非每一種發色體的紅龍都適合放黑水.黑水目的是使龍魚穩定.朔造原生地水質.水色.良好的黑水加下後不影響水的透明度.改變水色但依舊透明.水面上無雜質.氣泡.且不會隔夜退色.
    什麼時候需加黑水.
    長途運輸退色.生病退色.需加速回色時.幼龍緊迫時.

    養龍魚該有的心態.
    一尾龍魚在無人為疏忽下.壽命皆有10~15年.真正的龍魚美在完全發色的8歲成魚期.厚實的發色加上60cm以上巨大的體型.這將是很震撼的.我們在以前書上和老前輩玩家手上看到震撼的個體不就是這樣嗎?很可惜現在的龍魚愛好者沒有耐心和沒有養工.一昧追求高品質.高單價龍魚卻忽x養工及耐心.再一兩年就要求正紅(8年內的紅龍是不可能正紅色.龍魚靠時間累計顏色.時間夠就累計的色層越厚.到近趨正紅)
    在飼養高品質的龍魚前應考量的是否能有效控管以上3點.環境燈光水.和耐心.



    過背放白缸是在原產地新加坡.馬來西亞.任何一家魚場都將過背放白缸.目的當然是讓過背爬較快.但不曉得台灣玩家特別對白缸反感.
    過背在白缸中.的金直和排數還是能明白看的出來.爬框有分虛框與實框.虛框會退.是銀色.放黑缸及黑掉.實框是已上金框.放黑缸是不會退的.
    關於籃底過背
    籃底過背普遍背較黑.所以相對過的也慢.(我們所說的是正籃底.非是有藍色光芒的金底過背).所以30CM以內六排全過的較多.籃底則是極為少數.
    關於燈光.長時間燈照過背金值會較佳.但相對背也會照到黑掉.過的則慢.就要看飼主的個人喜好而定.
    我們對過背有一定的養法.可供各位參考.
    過背再30公分以前用白缸養.使他的背部黑背退去.先亮框.再來金框及會慢慢上.類似紅龍的發色方式.等金框上色以後再移至黑缸.這樣排數就不會退了.
    每種龍魚都有一定的養法.紅龍也是.供分享討論
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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE) Empty Re: AROWANA INFO (CHINESE)

    Post  CECILIA9260 Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:20 pm

    do u hv english version??
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    Post  y_sweebeng Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:37 am

    CECILIA9260 wrote:do u hv english version??
    hi ,i m from penang 2,can i go yr house see yr aro?call me if u agree 0124548096
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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE) Empty very sorry....

    Post  yapin24 Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:16 am

    very sorry... dont have eng version leh..
    try some lah.. may u all see that b4 liao.
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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE) Empty The Arowana tank water looks clear but the ammonia stench from it is rather strong! What should I do?

    Post  yapin24 Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:18 am

    The Arowana tank water looks clear but the ammonia stench from it is rather strong! What should I do?


    The number one cause of illness or disease in Arowanas is poor water quality. Poor tank water conditions stress and compromise the health of new or young fish as well as adults and long-term occupants. While maintaining a healthy tank sounds like a given to any serious aquarium keeper, good water care habits fall by the wayside all too often with established tanks.

    Think you’re doing OK since your tank looks clear and your fish appears healthy? Think again. Fish survival and water clarity do not serve as accurate indicators of water quality. Numerous dissolved toxic substances can be present in crystal clear water. PH and temperature fluctuations do not affect clarity, either.

    Unfortunately, poor water quality can take a physical toll on an Arowana so swiftly, it may be too late before you notice any signs of stress. In other instances, Arowanas may adapt to slowly deteriorating conditions. They may manage to survive until the overwhelming stress leads to “sudden” illness or disease.

    The only way to accurately gauge water quality is through regular water testing. The best way to prevent water quality problems is to ensure you have adequate filtration and follow a regular water maintenance and tank cleaning schedule.

    Water Testing for Quality Control
    Water testing should be performed a minimum of once per week. The more often you test your water, the more likely you are to detect a problem early on. Treating water problems before they reach dangerous levels is crucial to preventing stress. It is much simpler to diagnose and remedy small water quality problems than to treat compounded, crises-level conditions.

    Your water testing regimen should involve measuring levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. You should also monitor tank water temperature closely.

    • Ammonia is highly toxic to Arowanas and no measurable amount should be considered acceptable. Ammonia is produced by fish excrement, excess food, and other sources of decaying organic matter. Ammonia is continually released into any tank and processed by beneficial bacteria. Measurable levels of ammonia may indicate over-feeding, over-crowding, excessive waste buildup, or inadequate biological filtration.

    • Nitrite is also extremely toxic and no amount is considered safe. Ammonia is converted to nitrite within tanks, so nitrite buildup commonly follows a spike in ammonia level. It is also indicative of over-feeding or overcrowding, or inadequate or malfunctioning filtration systems.

    • Nitrate is the final product of the nitrogen cycle within the tank. It is formed when nitrite is oxidized by bacteria. It is far less toxic to Arowanas than ammonia or nitrite, and fish can tolerate slowly elevating nitrate levels. Sudden nitrate spikes combined with decreased oxygenation levels can result in nitrate shock. Ideally, nitrate should be kept at or below 25 mg/L.

    • pH is the acidity or baseness of the water. The maximum acidity of tank water is 1, while the maximum baseness is 14. Arowanas kept at between 6.5 to 7 pH will experience the least stress.

    • Water temperature should read between 24C (77F) to 30C (86F) for your Arowana to thrive. Check temperature at various times of the day to detect the effects of sunlight or lamps. Use two thermometers in separate areas of the tank for the most accurate reading. Remember that heaters are small appliances that can and do malfunction and fail.

    Your water test kits must be kept in excellent condition to provide accurate readings. They should be used within six months or discarded. Discard testing materials that are old or may have been contaminated.

    Improving Water Quality
    Water quality is best improved with a slow, methodical approach. It is essential that you identify and correct whatever is causing the water quality problem. Quick fixes or chemical cures or correctives rarely help long term. Many such products only make things worse and may interfere with accurate testing. For the benefit of your Arowana, it is best to learn to correct problems by improving water quality rather than quickly altering its chemical makeup.
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    AROWANA INFO (CHINESE) Empty Re: AROWANA INFO (CHINESE)

    Post  CECILIA9260 Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:43 pm

    y_sweebeng wrote:
    CECILIA9260 wrote:do u hv english version??
    hi ,i m from penang 2,can i go yr house see yr aro?call me if u agree 0124548096

    hi, why not u come to aquatic cafe
    below is the address:-
    1228-P JALAN PAYA TERUBONG, 11060 AYER ITAM, PENANG.


    Last edited by CECILIA9260 on Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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    Post  CECILIA9260 Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:42 pm

    yapin24 wrote:very sorry... dont have eng version leh..
    try some lah.. may u all see that b4 liao.

    i'm understand manderin but some of ppl dun understand...
    if really dun hv than nvm... Razz
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    Post  yapin24 Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:09 am

    for chinese version 1st loh.
    when got ENG.. i will post another topic..
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    Post  CECILIA9260 Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:51 am

    yapin24 wrote:for chinese version 1st loh.
    when got ENG.. i will post another topic..
    kaka

    ok, thanks.
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    Post  sirwin81 Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:20 pm

    Fuyoh. so many aro sifu. newbie like me really learnt a lot of things
    btw there have several articles that if ur ph is not > 7, then ammonia and nitrite is not that dangerous. this is simply because in an acidic environment ammonia and nitrite can only exist in its non toxis form. which free ammonium and nitrite ( dunno what is the non txoc version punya nama).
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    Post  wanz Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:08 pm

    hmmm...very nice info...a newbie like me should read thru here a lot...

    but for me i like to use K.I.S.S method Laughing
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    Post  sirwin81 Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:52 pm

    yeah me2
    but when it comes to red kinda hard to keep it KISS.

    wanz wrote:hmmm...very nice info...a newbie like me should read thru here a lot...

    but for me i like to use K.I.S.S method Laughing
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    Post  wanz Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:51 am

    sirwin81 wrote:yeah me2
    but when it comes to red kinda hard to keep it KISS.

    wanz wrote:hmmm...very nice info...a newbie like me should read thru here a lot...

    but for me i like to use K.I.S.S method Laughing

    well i did it when i had my red...just need to put in additional K leave only... other than that all the same Smile

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